Blog Sommer 2022

Wow

Ich bin mittlerweile in Schweden.und werde nächste Woche zurück nach Deutschland fahren.  Ich freue mich sehr über eure Teilnahme.  

Mir tut es sehr leid um meine freunde, die mit mir den Norden erleben wollten!

Ich habe festgestellt, dass ich nicht am Boot hänge.  Ich liebe das Meer, das Segeln und meine kleinen Abenteuer.

Dass es daheim Menschen gibt die mich mit Freuden erwarten tut gut. 

Neue Pläne sind gemacht.  Ich möchte in 1-2 Jahren ein Boot in Norwegen kaufen und den Törn fortsetzen. Das Land ist faszinierend und die Menschen haben mich in der kurzen Zeit für sich eingenommen. Ich muss da wieder hin.

Also keine Sorge es geht mir gut! 

Habe gerade erfahren, dass heute jemand mein Gepäck holt und jemand anderes bringt es nach Kiel 

Super 

Mein größter Dank an die beiden 

Zur Situation hier, 

Ich liege auf einer abgeschieden Insel an schwimmenden Stegen und muss mit dem beiboot an Land . Keine sanitären Einrichtungen, ein Lebensmittelgeschäft und Fähren gibt es.  Den Fehler an der Heizung konnte ich beim Ausbau beheben, da hatte sich nur ein Kontakt gelöst. Zu versuchen den Motor zu reparieren wäre mit unsicherem Ausgang würde hunderte verschlingen und alleine traue ich es mir nicht zu.  Einen Motor aus Deutschland zu holen würde tausende verschlingen.  Das Angebot dass er mir gebracht wird übersteigt was ich an Hilfe annehmen möchte.  Es würde ja auch schon 2000 Euro kosten und eine Unmenge Zeit.  Der Einbau hier wäre schwierig.  Zwar wäre ein Bagger da, mit dem man ihn ins Boot bringen könnte aber die Leute hier betreiben eine fischfarm und sind zeitlich extrem eingespannt. Dazu müsste Johannea eigentlich aus dem Wasser da das Getriebe neue simmerringe braucht und man die Propeller Welle im Wasser nicht heraus und wiederhinein bekommt. Theoretisch mit dem Bagger möglich aber es gibt kaum Platz zum stellen und keine lagerböcke die müsste ich dann erst bauen. Und wie gesagt, ob ich die Leute hier so einspannen könnte ist fraglich. Ich müsste hier über Wochen ohne dusche ausharren. 

Ein Boot wie Johanna bekomme ich für 10000 Euro, ein kleines auch für 4.  Die finanzielle Differenz ist also selbst zu einem gleichwertigen Boot überschaubar, wenn ich die Zeit nutze um zu arbeiten rechnet sich das eher.

Und der Törn ist eh nicht mehr zu retten. 

Dass mein Modell, im Sommer auf dem Boot leben und im Winter Urlaub machen und arbeiten mindestens ins Wanken kommt ist eine große Veränderung.  Das Ausräumen des Boots und Zurücklassen vieler Kleinigkeiten an denen Erinnerungen hängen ist schwer.  Ich bin froh wenn ich das hinter mir habe.  Am Samstag will ich zu frithjof fliegen.  Noch ist nicht klar ob ich jemanden finde der meine Sachen nach Bergen bringt, wo sie jemand nach Kiel bringen würde.  Sonst muss ich noch einmal mit dem Auto hierher, was 2 Tage Anfahrt bedeutet. 

All is lost

A movie wich I a can realy  recomend,

Only 3 words spoken shit, shit, shit

Dont take it as a joke Johanna is handed over as a gift to a norwegan. 

End of the trip, 

I am very sad but it is the only solution for me.

Live goes on.

New plans will be made, but not today. 

Ausgebremst auf der Insel Fedje 

Motorenschaden und die Heizung läuft auch nicht 

Sch...

Bergen
This morning I found out that grocery shops are closed on Sundays in Norway. Since I want to stock up at a discount store, I decided to stay another day. My laundry can dry and I took the bus to Bergen. A Norwegian said: What do you want there, you have hundreds of cities like that, go out into nature, that' s really unique.
He's right, but spending half a rainy day there was OK, but there's no need to get excited about Bergen.
For the onward journey, I decided to take a different route with less difficult passages. More open water and commercial shipping, but no speedboats breathing down your neck in the narrow currents. Anyway, I have to go out on the open sea again in a few days. Stattlandet is the name of the peninsula. It is marked as a dangerous sea area on the nautical chart - I've never read anything like that on a nautical chart before - and you should read up on it in the "Norske Los", the sea handbook (it's in English on board). For motorboats, there is an escorted convoy from the Sea Rescue Society 3 times a week! At 5 Beaufort you can no longer sail in the sea area. I will try to get in front of the convoy and of course wait for a TOP weather window. A tunnel for motorboats has been discussed for years. So the voyage planning will be more elaborate. In the meantime, I also have a metre of tidal range, which has to be taken into account when mooring so that you don't "hang on the ropes".

Strusshamn, just before Bergen

Here I was actually invited to a colourful concert in the cultural centre.

I did the laundry but the dryer is broken. Now my cabin is full of wet laundry and it's supposed to rain the next few days.
I have two difficult passages ahead of me that give me a bit of a headache. It would be best to start them just before high tide, which would be very early in the morning or late in the evening. The slightly less good alternative is just before low water. Passing both places at once is not possible anyway. If the water is not still, a current of up to 6 knots sets in and there are strong eddies.

Ole Bull - Devil's violinist
Apart from Niccolo Paganini, no one is said to have been so close to the human voice. Norwegian national hero, romantic, philanthropist. In the alleys of Bergen, people are said to have shouted to him from the windows: Play Ole play- and he did. After concerts, he continued to play in the streets. In the USA he founded a kind of commune and failed (Henry Ibsen - Per Gynt). He was related to Eduvard Grieg. He had his "Alhambra" built on Lysoya.

I'll leave Bergen to the right, I think this hectic pace overwhelms me. Although I would like to go to a Grieg concert, or Kari Brennes or Katzenjammer. Maybe that will work out somewhere else.

Überall Leben

From Utsira I sailed relaxed to the mainland in the ultimate bay north of Haugesund. Luckily it was yesterday, because what you see in the picture is sea fog, which I can only warn you about. It was there in 15 minutes. But I was able to turn into a bay and found a new mooring right away. Here, too, there are marked hiking trails. When the spook was over, I had a fantastic day of sailing. I am no longer used to wind from astern or half wind. I took an inside fairway today and was surprised how well I could sail anyway. Now I've learned: the south-westerly brings the fog! Tomorrow I'll probably have a break day here.
When the vikings had recovered the sail, they started the engine.

The popular search game again this year: Where is Johanna? (Image 5)
By the way: If you go to the pictures, the title will be displayed.

Utsira
Every navigator knows Utsira. There you would sit and listen to the croaky voice on the radio to get the weather report. And even if the weather was bad, when the station report came from Utsira, you were always glad not to be there at the moment. Utsira welcomed me with a mild wind force of 6 for its reputation. On the way, it was quite calm, so I was able to visit the barber. That's the beauty of cruises: you have a hairdresser, manicurist, pedicurist and beautician all on board, so you can devote yourself to the land and the people while on shore leave. So did I. Utsira has 217 inhabitants, making it the smallest independent municipality in Norway. There is a beautiful hiking trail and, apart from Spitsbergen, it is probably the westernmost populated point in Norway. The catch of the day was a bit small today and will be eaten tomorrow. I hear from a local that the fishing is rather bad at the moment, but next month it will be better.

Today I went to the island of Kvitsoy, where I forgot my electric toothbrush a few days ago. Then I wanted to manoeuvre myself into a good starting position for tomorrow, but I didn't fancy the strong wind that was coming up so I turned off to a small island. It is said to be one of the islands that was the first to be settled from Britain after the Ice Age. The way from there across the sea was short because there was still a lot of ice. Later, the Vikings returned to Britain and stole the family silver from their ancestors. Just kinship. Some of the dry stone walls I saw on my walk across the island are said to date back to the Viking Age. Tomorrow I will try to get to Utsira. A small island about 10 nm of the coast.

It was a beautiful spring morning. Of course I had to sail the 19 miles out of the Lysefjord under engine today, but it was worth it. Then I crossed a few more miles to the north. In fact, the fjord was even more impressive yesterday with the interplay of sun and clouds than today. But I was able to see the "Preikestolen", the "pulpit". If you look closely, you can see people on the Preikestolen and Christof's "Tide" in the other picture down in the fjord.

vpvhjveäcäevüem q ai äqäfc

All right, I'll try to put it into words. Today I was able to sail the Lysefjord to the end with wind from astern. It was simply breathtakingly beautiful. I also fished for 2 mackerel. It doesn't get any more perfect than that. Only my photos are disappointing.

1000 nautical miles
I have completed today. I'm in the Lysefjord, grey in grey and plenty of rain. Anchoring at a depth of 10 metres. I wanted to go fishing, but I don't think I want to leave the warm cabin.
Yesterday I spent a nice evening with a Norwegian sailor.

After 48 nm I landed on Kvitsoy north of Stavanger. An outpost in the sea that is surprisingly heavily populated. From now on, I won't have to go out to sea for longer distances until at least Alsesund. Tomorrow I want to sail to Lysefjord, the wind is favourable. I'll probably need 4 days for the detour, but I simply can't sail past Lysefjord and I have enough time now.
The other day I discovered something Martina told me about a long time ago. When you flush the toilet at night in the Atlantic, there are lots of little algae shining in the toilet, like little stars. It looks really pretty - a business idea for toilet manufacturers.

I went to Sirevag. 21 nm exactly against the wind, 28 nm I needed. The current pushed and pushed, making cruising really fun. Super tacking angle cog to 70 degrees and a hell of a speed.
But you don't need to have been in Sirevag. However, a friendly Norwegian drove me to the petrol station. Yesterday I paid mooring fees for the first time. 12.50 €. But in return, a light beer with 2.4 % alc. costs a measly €2.50 in the shop. Tomorrow I'm going to Tavanger, 35 nautical miles ahead, light winds. I hope it works out as well as it did today. In Norway, too, the weather is better at sea and on the coast than inland. The day before yesterday it snowed in the mountains and today it was cloudy on land while I sailed in the sunshine.

So the North Sea can also be lovely here. I was surprised that the swell subsided so quickly. Unfortunately, the wind was not from the southwest as promised, but from the west and was very weak. But with a few turns, I worked my way forward. I saw my first maelstrom since Sicily. I only realised the dimensions when a freighter entered a fjord. Then another hike up the mountain. And then showers! The first since Laesö.
And the next days? Headwind.

An eventful day.
First I realised that I had the wrong weather report yesterday, there are several islands with the same name. So today aim to leave Cape Lindesnes (the southernmost cape in Norway) to the south. It was clear that this might not work. At sea I notice that my main halyard is jammed, so back to a sheltered spot where I can clear it. After Cape Lindesnes, all of a sudden 6 bft and waves up to 3 metres high. I decided that this was too much for me today. It was a wrong decision, because I had already come so far that I could have passed the cape and sailed into the next northern bay. But it looked so narrow on the plotter. Well, I went to Lillehamn and from there I did a hike to the impressive Cape Lindesnes.
If you can photograph a wave, that means something, the navigators know that.

Tomorrow morning I want to sneak around the cape and then quickly slip into the next bay. I hope the waves calm down a bit overnight and wind force 6 is only reported again from 11 am.

Anchor at 4.00. I want to take advantage of the light wind (3-5 Bft) to cross to the west. The forecast for noon is 7 Bft again. I can do some sailing within the archipelago, but twice I have to go out into the open sea, each time for 1-2 hours. Wave height 2.5 metres. Ok if you have reefed sufficiently, but I was wondering where water can penetrate the ship. I sailed 39 nautical miles to make 24 west. I am on Skernoy southeast of Mandal. I got to the jetty just in time. It's a harsh beauty that reminds me of Greenland. Tomorrow the wind will be favourable but with up to 8 Beaufort. Winfried is afraid to go to sea.
I'll show you some impressions of the sea in the early morning and later on the open sea (not completely out, because I couldn't take pictures) and of the harsh beauty.

After 17.5 nm I am south-southeast of Kristiansand. Again up to 7 bft against. That's just not possible any more. The next few days I'm always upwind, only on Monday it comes from the south. So I made a plan to fight it out, but it didn't work because the wind would be too strong from the north again on Saturday and Sunday after Cape Lindesnäs. That's very frustrating, I have no idea how I'm going to make any progress except on Monday.

Southwest wind up to 7 Bft forecast for noon. So in the morning I sailed 8 nm to a nice bay under engine. I share the island with a few sheep. Tomorrow I hope to make distance to the southwest with the westerly wind. But it's supposed to be quite tingly in places. At least I don't have to go to customs in Kristiansand, I can do that online. If you want to leave your boat in Norway, you have to apply for it, otherwise you have to pay import duty.

Habt ihr eigentlich gemerkt, dass ihr die Bilder anklicken könnt? 

Bordhymne

Es gibt seit Jahren die Tradition der Bordhymne und die ist "Das Narrenschiff" von Reinhard May. das wird nun ergänz in Norwegen durch Kari Brennes "Coastal Trip" und "Song to a town" von der CD Norwegian Mood. Also nehmt teil und hört euch das einmal an.

This morning I had a little mini burnout and I thought I really needed to take the pressure off. Then I slept for the morning and had a good breakfast, and the world looked different again. Since I'll have to fight the south-westerly wind in the next few days anyway, I thought I'd head out at 2pm, as there's a nice anchorage 5 miles from here. Of course, it's against the wind and there's a shitty wave, but it doesn't matter. 1 - 2 hours and then I've made it at least a little way. So it's all about taking the pressure off. Mooring on the rock with astern anchor is always pretty stupid on its own, but it worked out reasonably well. Once there, I fried broccoli with noodles - great. And then the shore leave and a thought came up. When a Norwegian greeted me with the words: Now you have arrived in paradise, the thought was clear - today my journey begins! So far it has been a ferry trip. These islands are so incredibly beautiful. There is the fairytale forest again. Some may ask how you can recognise a fairytale forest. I have found out how to do it very easily. You see the fairytale forest and recognise it immediately. But when you take a photo of it, you can't see it in the photo. And I think I even saw my first troll - just maybe the tip of a tail - I'm not quite sure...
Let's see what pictures I show you

Selfie

I got up at 3 o'clock yesterday and left the harbour in the dark. After 17 hours, 85 nautical miles across the Skagerak, I found a jetty 4 nautical miles south of Arnedal. At first there was no wind for a long time, then only very light and I was worried whether I would be able to arrive before the stormy wind that was forecast for the night. Fortunately, the wind freshened up to 6 Beaufort from 2 p.m. onwards and I was able to reach 10 knots on the wave, unrigged? (ausgebaumt) and with a preventer in surfs. The approach to the coast was exciting in the high rising seas and I was very happy when I had moored the boat firmly. Norway greeted me with rain and stormy winds today. Addendum to Skagen: I have never seen such enormously large fishing trawlers. I also took a selfie. Denmark would not be my sailing area, hardly any anchorages, expensive mooring fees and it smells like rotten seaweed everywhere.

Norwegen! 

Einmal quer durch das Skagerrak, 85 sm 3 Uhr aufgestanden. 

Und zur Feier der Ankunft haben gleich 3 ganz besondere Menschen in den Blog geschrieben,  ermutigt mich sehr weiter zu machen i

Ihr werdet nicht glauben was es heute bei mir zu abend gab  Ravioli aus der Dose 

Bin heute über das Skagerrak Schlachtfeld gefahren, mein grossvater war auf der sms von der tann, den 2.Weltkrieg hat er auch überlebt. 

Und ab morgen wieder in Farbe und in Bildern and in english 

Skagen 

Last harbour in the baltic sea.

After 45 nm I arrived on the island of Laesö. Visibility was very poor today. Laesö is still a real fishing harbour. Today it's blowing with 6 Beaufort, I'd have to go hard into the wind to make the 30 nautical miles to Skagen, that's getting too hard for me. Let's see, maybe the wind will drop a little in the afternoon.

1000 km under sail!
I turned through the Falsterbo Canal south of Malmö into the Öresund, through the Öresund Bridge and onto the island of Ven just before Elsinore (Helsingör). Unfortunately, the wind went to sleep at 2pm, but the current still took me well with 2 knots. When the wind picked up again, I should have continued to Elsinore, but the island of Ven was too inviting to sail past - very pretty! (64 nm) In Elsinore Castle, Shakesbear plays his Hamlet. Today I sailed from Ven to the island of Anholt in the middle of the Kattegat (65 nm). The wind was from astern and it was a pleasure to sail all day.

Hej do sverige!

I arrived in Smygehamn, the most southern point in scandinavia. So I have been to the northern and southernmost harbour in sweden. There was almost no wind today.  I coul make 10 miles under spinnacker and 7 miles on engine. So, tomorrow I turn to the north!

Wonderful sailing on an almost summer day. After 35 nautical miles and 5 tacks I am in Ystad and greet everyone from Wallander. The small towns here in the south are actually very nice, especially Ystad. On my way here I wanted to see the "Ales Stenar" and considered making a stop, which I discarded. However, I was lucky enough to spot this ship settlement from the time of the Vikings on the cliff. It is over 60 metres long and the largest in Scandinavia. You will only be able to guess at it from the pictures.
At the request of our readers, here are two selfies of Winfried at sea and ready for shore leave.
Tomorrow we'll continue around Scandinavia's Cape Horn and then finally head north. the winds seem favourable for the next few days.

I know how to turn it, but it's too much work for me right now.

I am blown in. 7 Beaufort West. I hate it.

After 51 nm I landed in Simrishamn. Again, the day was not as expected. Unfortunately, the wind was not from the west as expected, but from the southwest, which is why I had to cross again. Unfortunately, it fell asleep completely around 2 p.m. and I had to use the engine. Then came the squalls, which bring strong winds every now and then, but ultimately cause more stress than they bring forward. I show a few pictures, which I comment in German

Hier zunächst ein Bild von der "schwarzen See" 

Das nächste zeigt die Situation vor der Schauerboe ind der mit viel regen und Wind zu rechnen ist. 3 haben mich heute erwischt. EDas dauert etwa 30 min dann sieht man die Sache von hinten, oft mit diesen schönen Regenbogen, während im Westen der Himmel schon wieder klar und sonnig ist. 30 Minuten, Regenkleidung anziehen, Segel reffen, abwettern, nass werden, und wieder Segel setzen. Wie gesagt, das ganze heute drei mal.

Today there was just too much wind. Above all, I missed the 6.5 nautical miles I wanted to make yesterday in the direction of the west. They would have given me the decisive, slightly better angle to the wind. So today it was just too hard on the wind at 7 Beaufort and I turned around. In the end, I sailed 22 nautical miles and made up 7.5 to the west.

At 5.45 I sailed with the westerly wind to the southwest. Unfortunately, it already shifted to southwest at 9.00 a.m., so that I had to turn to south-southeast, as expected. The next time the wind shifted to the south, I was lucky enough to reach the southern tip of the mainland after a tack (45 nm). After that, I finally headed west at high speed, right into a rain squall. I had trouble recovering both sails in time and turning north through the shallows. Here I found good and calm anchorage ground in Saltärna (14 nm north-east of the island of Hanö) after 68 nm. Today's goal was to get me into a good starting position for the strong westerly wind tomorrow. I almost succeeded.

As I stayed one day longer, I missed the North Wind, as expected. The organ concert was worth it, I really liked a contemporary composer. The forecast for today was for a strong wind of 6-7 Beaufort from the south from 1 p.m. and 8 Beaufort for the late afternoon. There was no point in cruising any more. So I left early at 6.00 am to at least get to Morbylanga, the next harbour. It's quiet and cosy here and I have everything I need, including a cold shower if necessary. At least they haven't collected yet. Tomorrow the wind is forecast to blow from the south again with up to 7 Beaufort, so I won't even set sail. I have already done a few things on board today and will optimise the heating tomorrow.

In the last two days I sailed 99 nm to Kalmar. I cooked during the trip, too, because the pot holders make it possible. The night before last was probably one of the last opportunities to moor in a natural harbour. From now on it will almost always be harbours and you have to pay for them. Besides, it's usually not idyllic at all. There are only a few anchorages left in Hanö Bay. Last night I had the pleasure of bursting into a jazz concert in the basilica - saxophone and organ. Today there will be another organ concert with Bach and Händel, so I'm staying an extra day. The basilica or cathedral is baroque. But if you know Upper Swabian baroque, it's probably more like "Baröckchen".

Once again I am moored at a "Jungfruskär" which is the most common name for an Iland. After only 34 nm. In the morning it was pleasantly warm, but at sea the wind was cold from the open sea. In the evening it shifted and came warm from land. When I went ashore, I started sweating so much that I thought about taking my first bath - but the water temperature was 6 degrees.

After not setting foot on land for three days, I went for an 8 km walk on Öja yesterday morning. Öja is the southernmost island of the Stockholm archipelago. It was a restricted area until the end of the Cold War because of the nuclear weapons safe bunkers. Only the few inhabitants, mostly fishermen and military personnel, were allowed on the island. Life must have been very special, they tell me. The old Kahr for transporting cattle is obviously no longer in use. I don't know if people here believe in the labyrinths, their meaning has not been handed down. However, they appear all over the world, especially at fishing spots, and they are most often seen in Sweden.
Then, with a light south-easterly wind, we set off on a south-westerly course directly towards the pearl of the St. Anna archipelago - Harstena. A picture-book island with the best anchorages and a picturesque village. In the evening, however, the wind was quite strong and I arrived here frozen through. Only savoy cabbage left to cook, eat and go to bed.

Anchor at 6.45. The wind is favourable, I want to eat miles. In fact, it turns out better than expected. Half wind 5 - 6 Beaufort, 6-8 knots speed. Exhausting in parts in the archipelago. I want to go to Hävringe, because I can still make some use of the south wind there tomorrow. But unfortunately the wind falls asleep at the southern tip of Öja. Still 19 miles to Hävringe. So I return to the harbour of Öja after 55 nautical miles. The next few days the wind is southerly, it will be difficult to make progress.

I startet 6.45 in the morning and went southwest. At 1.00 pm I had to make a break because the wind was to strong and from the wrong direction. So I had lunch and a nap and left the bay at 5 pm. I arrived 7.45 in the bay of Korsö some miles south of Möja in the middle of the Stockholm Archipelago after 35 nm. I was laying before  ancker. It was a wonderfull and very narrow approach.

Tomorrow I should have the wind from North, so I plan to get up urly and make miles south teh whole day.

Dear friends,

I try to write my blog in english this year. Maybe it gets a bit more international like this. I think that could be interisting for all of us. Unfortionatly my english is not too good - you should excuse that - or maybe correkt me. 

I am looking foreward to your comments in any language I understand.

If someone has problems to understand please tell me. 

Today I startet may sailing trip at 6 am in Östhammar. It was a sunny day but in the max 12 degrees. There was light winds but from the right direction. So I went throu the Väddö Canal to Kapellskär - 43 nautical miles (nm) which is about 80 km. In former times the Väddö Canal used to be a natural canal, but due to the landrising, which is about 7 milimeters per year boats couldn`t pas it any longer. So it was dredged out and ships could pass it again. Of course only small boats and nowerdays its only for pleasure boats, but realy beautifull (you can find pictures in the last year blog. 

The landrising in scandinavia startet after the last ice age about 12000 years ago (as far as I remember) when the ice melted  which was up to 3 kilometers thick - like in Greenland today. In total the land raised 275 m since today (in the region of Höga Kusten). This ist the highest landrising in the world

Kapellskär lies in the entrance to the Stockholm archipelago and many ferries pas by.

Here a picture from my todays ancorage and an impression on the way: